Rambler Rogue Registry

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Miscellaneous Info That You Might Find Useful
(Mostly taken from the AMC List)

WARNING -- NO GUARANTEE, WARRANTY, OR FITNESS OF ANY INFORMATION FOR ANY PURPOSE IS EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED!!
USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK! THIS IS INFORMATION OBTAINED FROM AN INTERNET MAILING LIST AND NO ACTION HAS BEEN TAKEN TO CONFIRM THE RELIABILITY OF ANY OF THIS INFORMATION OR TO INSURE THAT ANYTHING BELOW WORKS FOR ANY REASON UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE.

IT IS PRESENTED HERE ONLY TO PROVIDE A STARTING POINT FOR YOU TO MAINTAIN YOUR CAR. CHECK YOUR SOURCES PRIOR TO SENDING ANYONE ANY MONEY FOR ANYTHING. USE THE INFORMATION HERE TO FIND SOURCES, BUT CHECK THEM OUT FIRST!

I previously posted this: Mac McCoy runs a business named "For Ramblers Only"
He is in Portland, OR, phone # (503) 232-0497
His email address is RamblerMac@aol.com

For an in-depth education on trunnions, visit Paul Dwyer's Trunnion and Front Spring Service Page. Walt Garson (address and link on trunnion page) can supply you with replacement, greasable trunnions. I got a pair for my '66 American from Kennedy American (614-879-7283).

For you and anyone else interested in this conversion - I installed a Delco 10si alternator in my 1971 Javelin 360. Here's the instructions I posted to the list a while ago - I got them in a mailing from the Northern Ramblers Car Club that I'm a member of. I'm not sure if the Hornet brackets would be the same or not, but all the wiring details should be the same.

Anyway, go to the parts store and ask for an alternator for an 1980 AMX with a 258 engine - get the (63) amp version (the stock Motorola is only 40 amps) - don't get the 70 or 90 amp one - the 63 amp barely fits on my car - I had to do a bit of fab work to get it in. REAL cheap - I paid $86 Canadian for mine at the ever famous Canadian Tire. Also buy the GM pigtail harness that goes with it - cost me $2.00.

The only difference on my car between the (2) alternators was that the top mounting leg on the GM is almost an inch thicker (2" vs 1-1/16"). Use a hacksaw to cut the leg down to match the old alternator - real easy since it's a powdered metal casting.

- Upon installation, I found that the new alternator hit HARD against my oil filter.

-To get around this I removed the mounting bracket and lengthened the adjusting slot about 1/2" using a drill and burring tool.

-The net affect of this allowed me to pull the alternator 1/2" further away from the oil filter. Now it fit but was very lightly resting against the filter. I took a file and removed a bit of the casting in the offending area and voila ... all's OK.

Oh yeah, if you have a (6) cylinder that has the alternator mounted on the drivers side they suggest either splitting the existing mounting bracket in half with an air chisel,,,, or ,,, buying a bracket for a Chevy small block thru 1968. You will also need to use a few washers to get the bracket to fit tight against the alternator, as well as move up the top slider mount slightly.

- Unplug the original regulator (mine was on the passenger side inner fender well) and tape up any wires from the harness (the GM unit is self regulating).

- Crimp or solder a ring terminal onto the Red wire on the new pigtail harness. Plug in the harness into the new alternator.

- Attach the red wire from the new pig tail AND the original charge wire from your cars harness to the charge terminal of the new alternator. Per other posts suggestions I also ran a (10) gauge wire from the charge post to the + terminal of the battery - for a total of (3) wires connected to the charge post.

- Attach the white wire from the new pig tail harness to alternator light wire from your cars harness - on my car it was an orange wire. You can test for the correct wire by finding the wire that has power when the key is turned on - that's the one.

Complete job took me about (2) 1/2 hours including the run to the store for the larger drive belt. It runs just fine.

If you're interested in high-pressure shocks, as of a few years ago kyb was still making them for the '68-'69 javelin/amx. btw, they also fit '64-'69 americans - i have a set on my '68.

Most manufacturers supply the same rockers for AMC, small block Ford and Olds applications. I have used both Crane and Harland Sharp and they both work just fine. If you are going to run any kind of a serious race cam, go with 7/16 studs. ARP [1-800-826-3045] big block chevy studs work like they were made for the job.

About 5 years ago, I was shopping for roller rockers for my 360. After two sets of sb chevy rockers that didn't fit, I decided to try the Harland Sharp rockers. I found their number (in Strongsville Ohio if you want to call info) and talked to them directly. While they would not sell them to me retail, I did get the following information:
1. They are the same rocker as the ford 351W.
2. They suggested I get them in the 7/16 stud size.
3. They could special order the same with a 1.7 ratio, if desired.

I then called Summit [1-800-230-3030], and ordered the Harland Sharp ford 351W, 7/16" stud rockers 1.6 ratio, BB chevy 7/16" studs, chevy sb pushrods + .050" and everything fit just fine!

If you have mid 74 or later heads, then additional machine work and guideplates are necessary, if not, then that's it.

I needed to replace the corroded rear brake lines on my 66 American. I contacted Fine Lines [1-800-778-8237] and got their catalog. They don't list rear brake lines for the American but they list them for the 69 SC/Rambler. My options were to send my brake lines to them or order the SC/Rambler lines. I didn't want the hassle of packaging my brake lines so I ordered the SC/Rambler lines.

Thought I would pass this along to anyone who is interested. When installing the intake manifold on your AMC V8's, I use the full valley gasket, the metal kind that runs from one head to the other. If any of you have used these in the past, you know they can be a pain to get in the right spot, then when you drop the manifold on, you find it has shifted and the holes no longer line up. Heres what I do...

1) cut about a 2"x2" notch at the front of the gasket (facing towards the timing case). This clears the metal casting where those allen bolts are and makes flexing the gasket much easier.

2) I apply the gasket sealer, RTV around the water ports, and the black sticky stuff around the intake ports, on the head side only. Then I take the intake manifold bolts and put a nut on each of them and thred them up part way. Put the gasket in, line up the end holes, and put a manifold bolt in each corner. Don't torque them down but thread it solid. Then take the nuts you put on and losen them until they are holding the gasket firmly. Use the rest of the manifold bolts the same way, thread them and then loosen the nut until it is holding the gasket firmly against the head.

I will usually leave it sit this way for either a few hours or overnight. Then, when you pull the manifold bolts, the gasket stays right where you put it. Put the sealer(s) on the intake side of the gasket, plop your manifold on, and voila, every hole lines up...you can even thread these babys by finger most of the time. Having done this no less than 4 times this month, I think I finally figured it out.

The "HELP!" brand number 42056 should be what you need. I installed a Machine intake on my Gremlin and needed the same thing recently. That's why I've still got the package.

The engine number is stamped on a machined pad between the number 2 and 3 cylinders on the right side of a 6-cylinder engine (except the 196, which has it on a pad near the upper left side of the engine near oil filter (if so equipped). On V8's the number is stamped into a metal tag screwed into the front of the right valve cover. On the example code of "109N21" numbers are as follows:

1 - YEAR (1968). This code was adopted in 1959. No zeros were used (until 1980).
1 = 1959, 2 = 1960, etc., repeating with 1 = 1968 and 1977.
Beginning with the 1980 calendar year (all engine numbers deal in calendar years, NOT model years!) a zero was added to the code. From 1980 to 1991 the year number is the last digit in the year (0 = 1980/90, 1 = 1981/91, etc.).

The dates are the date of final assembly. The tag was put on the engine as it was readied to leave the plant.

Year	Engine Size	Color	Ditzler #/ DuPont #
56-65	196 Lhead	Gray	31946 /
61-63	196 OHV	Red and Gray	Note: The 61-63 196 engines are believed to have used the L-head gray for the block and the rampart red for the cylinder head.
61-64	196 OHV (Alum)	Silver	/ DEE-45
64-66	196 OHV	Lancelot Turquoise	12828 /
64-67	199 OHV	Cape Code Blue	12675 / 4416
66	290 V8	Copper	22867 /
67	232 OHV	Rampart Red	71394 / 4541
67	290 V8	Gold	22866 /
67	343 V8	Copper	22867 /
68	ALL	Caravelle Blue non/metallic	13416 / 4936DH
69	ALL	Blue Poly METALLIC	13730 / Note: There are at least four different paint mixtures for Blue Poly from the original supplier Seymore Paint of Sycamore Illinois.